All sorts of scrapped and secondhand devices can be used
to generate your own electricity. Car alternators are an obvious one if
you want to charge 12 Volt batteries. Small permanent magnet motors such
as radiator fan motors or cassette recorder motors are easy to use as they
produce DC power directly without any external circuits like rectifiers
or control boxes.
There is another type of electric motor worth considering
- the small stepper motors used in old computer
printers. They are quite small and aren't suitable for producing more than
a few Watts, but there are good reasons for looking at them. For a start,
the lunatic speed at which computer equipment goes obsolete means there
are enormous numbers of them available free. Unlike small DC motors, steppers
will generate power at very low rotation rates; typically only about 200
rpm for a good output which is ten or fifteen times slower than the rate
for a DC motor. Small scale generators to run things like computer games
or flashlights can be made without mechanical complications like gearing.
Because of their small size they're obviously not suitable for charging
large batteries.
Better applications would be pocket sized generators
to convert things like Walkmans and MP3 players to wind-up power, saving
the waste and pollution of chemical batteries. Another possibility is small
wind generators as the low rpm needed means a propeller could be mounted
directly on the motor shaft. (Actual gears in a wind generator are generally
a disaster - the whining noise is amplified by the blades and spreads over
a wide area because of the height).
The present generation of printer motors are admittedly
not large, and in fact are getting smaller as the old daisywheel and dot
matrix printers are replaced by inkjets and smaller lasers. It is definitely
worth experimenting with them though, as it is likely that the next generation
of domestic appliances will be heavily computerised, and so full of nice
big steppers. Anyone who has acquired experience on the small ones will
be able to make these into some really nice generators.
Selecting Suitable Motors
Old Dot Matrix computer printers (the larger and older
the better) contain at least two steppers.
Usually one drives the roller and another moves the print head back and
forth. Daisywheel printers will also have one to turn the daisywheel
which can be a bit inaccessible but worth the effort. Tiny steppers were
also sometimes used to wind the ribbon and in
colour printers another minute one moved a striped ribbon up and down.
Disc drives tend to be a bit disappointing - often the motors are built
into the drive hub and contain some electronics
so you can't get easy access to the coil connections. Really old 5.25"
floppy drives contain a nice motor used to move
the reading head back and forth - it's a lot more useful than the one for
turning the disc which was sometimes a DC motor on older ones and tangled
into the circuit board on later models. Very old hard drives (on 286 or
386 computers and less than 100M) use a small stepper
to move the head array. Modern hard drives use an analogue galvanometer
instead; it contains a pair of amazingly strong magnets
- mind your fingers if you extract them! Physically large motors like the
single ones which drive laser printers are obviously more powerful than
small ones; anything less than an inch in diameter is probably only suitable
for running a few LED's. They're OK for educational purposes or making
illuminated things for playing with at chill-outs. (See the page on making
Hub Disc Twirly Things)
Steppers come with different resolutions. Virtually all
steppers are either 1.8° or 7.5° per step; (200 steps or 48 steps
per revolution) the difference can be felt easily if you turn the spindle
by hand. The 1.8° ones are obviously better for generating at really
low revs, but also 'top out' lower. The coils in steppers have a relatively
large inductance, and beyond a certain speed the output frequency gets
so high that the impedance of the coils starts to become significant and
limits the current. When making a stepper based generator, you need to
keep the motor speed to around a couple of hundred revs per minute - something
like the normal speed of a bicycle wheel.
Apart from printers, plenty of other things contain steppers.
Scanners, shredders, faxes and photocopiers are also worth checking out.
Be careful with things like copiers and laser printers not to get toner
all over your workshop, especially if it doubles as your living room! Don't
vacuum clean toner as the particles are so small they'll go through the
bag into the air. Wash it off with water or clean it up with a damp cloth.
Really large steppers are found in automated industrial equipment and the
large tape drives used with old mainframe computers which you might still
find at auctions. The next generation of highly automated washing machines
and dishwashers, household robots etc. will contain some nice big steppers,
and it won't be too long before they are superseded and start to turn up
at the rubbish tips and car boot sales. There's already a nice example
of this in New Zealand where Fisher and Paykel have been selling stepper-driven
washing machines for some years, and scrapped ones have been made into
neat hydro generators by a local company appropriately called Ecoinnovation.
The 20cm diameter motor in the Smart Drive washing machine is an example
of the nice big motors just around the corner.
What's Inside a Stepper Motor
In the early days of DIY renewable energy, it was popular
to make small wind generators out of bicycle wheels
containing Sturmey Archer Dynohubs. Now almost
a museum piece, they were the predecessor of the bottle shaped rim 'dynamo'.
(I don't know what was the matter with the people who named these things
- they were both ALTERNATORS producing AC; the term dynamo is better used
for generators incorporating a synchronised contact breaker turning the
output into DC. Maybe it was something to do with marketing) Anyway, the
Dynohub was a small multi-pole alternator in the hub of either the front
or rear wheel with an internal resistance of 6 Ohms and capable of generating
6 Volts when turned at 60 rpm. The performance wasn't that good - the internal
resistance means that if you took a current of half an Amp from it the
voltage would have dropped to only 3 Volts. In spite of this, many people
made wind generators out of them by sticking blades in the spokes, rectifying
the AC with a bridge rectifier and putting them on the roof of their caravan
or bus to trickle charge batteries.
Stepper motors are also a small multi-pole alternator,
but being more modern they have four phases while the old Dynohub had only
one. In use, the computer puts a pulse of current into each phase coil
in turn, moving the shaft on one step. As with a DC permanent magnet motor,
turning the motor's shaft makes it work backwards, causing pulses of current
to come out of the windings. However, the current is AC, going plus as
a magnet pole approaches a coil and then minus as it goes away again. Usually
there are four phases at 90 degree intervals
so when one comes down to zero, the next one has reached maximum. This
is a benefit as it means the output can be rectified to produce much smoother
DC with hardly any gaps, but it means they have a scarily large number
of wires coming out. Luckily it's quite easy to figure out which way around
they are using a resistance meter (preferably digital), and getting them
the wrong way around won't do any damage. The most common type of stepper
has six wires coming out. (There are also five, four and eight wire versions;
I'll come to those later - they are easy to understand once you've sussed
the six wire one) The six wire stepper is actually two motors on one shaft,
so the six wires can immediately be separated into two groups of three.
Each group will have some connection to each other, but no connection to
any of the other group. In each group, one wire is the common and the other
two are the opposite ends of a winding which will give out oppositely phased
AC.
In terms of resistance, the reading
from the common to either end will be half the reading across the two ends.
Having found the common on one set, you can use the same process to find
the common in the other one. All four windings will have almost exactly
the same resistance.
The majority of steppers are six wire, but there are
other varieties. Five wire ones are easy; the two commons on the six wire
have already been connected together for you which makes things easier.
Eight wire ones are just like a six wire but with all the windings separate,
and four wire ones are half of an eight wire one (or half a six wire one
with the two windings separate).
There's more than one way to wire up the stepper to get a DC output. Unlike the dynohub, you can't wire it up to a bulb and run it off AC as it's got four separate phases and connecting any two directly will cause a short and stall it. On the other hand, if you're bursting to generate some power, connecting a small light bulb, say 6V 100 mA from ONE of the live phases to the common and turning the spindle with your fingers should get a result. It's quite a good way to find out if you're going to get a useful amount of power out of it, but you'll only get a quarter of the possible power that way. The simplest way to wire it up is to link the two commons to the minus terminal and then connect each of the four live phases through a small diode to the plus one as shown. Here's what it looks like.
The four lives will each go positive (and then negative) one after the other like the cylinders of a car firing and the diodes collect together all the positive pulses and feed them out. Because of the overlapping phases, the rectified AC never goes down to zero like it would from a normal bridge rectifier. Putting the bulb across the output should give a stronger result than before and a DC voltmeter will show that the output voltage is more or less proportional to the rotation speed. This is normal for a permanent magnet alternator and you will need to use a regulator limit the voltage. Because the stepper is acting as an AC generator, it doesn't matter which way you turn it so designs in which it is turned alternately forward and back by a treadle or foot pedal are possible.
If the motor you've got is rated at 5V but you want to
generate enough voltage to charge a 12V battery, you can often get away
with just spinning it a bit faster. If that doesn't work, you may be better
off using this voltage doubler circuit with
two bridge rectifiers. I've built a pedal generator which can be switched
between the two configurations, and there's less difference between them
than you'd expect. The double voltage configuration gives a good voltage
at lower speeds but has less current capability as there's twice the winding
resistance. The normal four diode setup gives more current when driven
faster, but not twice as much as the AC impedance of the windings has an
effect due to the higher frequency.